Tales from Palestine # 8

Tentatively, after broaching all other subjects of family, friends, and life in general, Ha brings up the issue of significant others. Rather than answering, I keep my distance as the aspiring journalist, and shoot the same question back to her. Her face lights up, and quite obviously, it was the question she was waiting for.

Fingering her abaaya, she tells me how she met him three years before in Nablus, but he was born in Italy. Muslim, she assures, with a grin, and continues on with the story. Although she has not seen him in nearly one year, tomorrow they will meet in Ramallah for one day before she heads back to the University to her classes on Thursday.

From her appearance, her revelation of her boyfriend comes as a shock, but then the discussion turns to religion and dress, and all is clear. While the giggling group of muhajababes continues to stare at the strange combination of a Palestinian girl in an abaaya and an American gesturing dramatically, Ha flicks her eyes over and asks about my perception of religion and the hijab.
I look over at them and give the routine answer: If girls are continuing wearing the hijabs paired with tight clothes, then what is the point. I understand that many of them do so due to family obligation and because of the conservative nature of Nabl—

She cuts me off. Nablus is not as conservative as it appears, she explains. It is an appearance, mostly for the older generation, and sometimes, even strange circumstances.
Nablus is a trendy city; everyone must be thin, beautiful, and have equally trendy clothes, she says. You know, I didn't wear an abaaya when I first started University, but I didn't have money to buy new clothes everyday, so I decided to wear an abaaya until I graduate and have the money for new clothes.

I must be frowning because she tells me not to be angry with her, and I ask her why she thinks I would be angry. I had let it slip that I respect religion and those who believe in it, and she thinks her revelation will destroy our friendship. I assure her that it is quite the opposite.
As I walk around campus since our conversation, I have not been able to look at the girls without thinking of Ha. How many of these girls in abaaya wear them for reasons besides religion? Are they as religious as they look? Do the hijabs and abaayas have anything to do with culture, even?

Appearances can be deceiving, and I say that with as much cliché-power as possible, but the abaaya clad girl with the Italian boyfriend, who has no religious or cultural tie to her religious dress has pushed me to delve deeper.